Carrying a Torch (as in torch ginger)
RED GINGER CARIBBEAN AND LATIN AMERICAN BISTRO
[from August 2004 issue]

Decidedly under new ownership, the Red Ginger Bistro--formerly owned and cooked for by the renowned Sharon Banks and husband--has a decidedly less aggressive atmosphere and a pared-down menu. It also seems to attract a much smaller crowd, if a recent Sunday night sets any example. At 7:15, I was the sole patron. Never mind, by 8 p.m. others had straggled in and pretty soon the Red Ginger, if not echoing with conversation and music, had its fair share of patrons tucking into the new owner/chef’s menu.

His concept: A mix of Caribbean, Latino and down-South goodies that may pique appetites as well as puzzle the culinary mind. How to explain the appetizer mussels steamed with oven-dried tomatoes and chorizo sausage appearing one line up from oysters encrusted with plantains, which for all the world sounds like a kitschy version of New Orleans’ fabled Oyster Po’ Boy. Other appetizers sounded fairly mundane, and, for example, even if the shrimp quesadilla fairly burst with flavor, quesadillas are too commonplace to bother with at such a fancy restaurant.

And even if such appetizer combos sound a bit unusual, you will applaud the chef’s flashy take on Jamaica’s jerk chicken. His offering of Jamaican Jerk Chicken “Lollipops” resounds with the throb of heat upon heat, tempered by a dollop of roasted corn and black bean salsa. Gleaming with a luscious marinade, these crunchy drumsticks may well be one of the best interpretations of the jerk theme I’ve ever tasted. It’s even money that says these may be the chef’s best starter.

A glance through the sides listing tips you off: This guy must have his roots in Louisiana--collard greens, corn grits, mashed sweet potatoes and roasted corn suggest serious soul food. Yet the entrées take you off to the islands again, with a few stops in Mexico. Whatever else may tempt you, indulge yourself with the rack of lamb rubbed with red mole paste--mole being one of Mexico’s best-loved and most unusual contributions to the food world. Imagine anyone dreaming up a paste of ground unsweetened chocolate, herbs, and chilies, and all this in countless variations on the theme. Here, the grilled lamb bears the same haunting flavor of this combination and is truly a memorable dish. But what you don’t really understand from the menu is that the rack, while perched on a portion of black lentils and spinach, really stands naked and alone on the plate. You’ll need a side, for sure, and with this fried plantains would be a natural.

Other entrées you might consider: adobo-spiced duck, Jamaican rum and apple cider cured pork tenderloin; shrimp and purple corn polenta with sausage, spinach and a lobster curry sauce; and mojo curry chicken. Even vegetarians are not forgotten, for the kitchen offers a Vegetarian Blue Plate with quino pumpkin salad, Portobello mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes with spinach.

You will find a smart and comprehensive, if short, wine menu. You may also find dessert, but on the way in, I’d spied Georgetown’s newest ice cream heaven, a tiny cup of a place called Isee Icy, just next door to Red Ginger. Better yet, this odd newcomer, all white and shiny and filled with ice cream dreams, offers made-on-the-premises dulce de leche ice cream in various iterations. We follow Italian formulae for our ice creams, noted one of the counter girls--those Italians know about ice creams. However, it’s not cheap, as a single scoop costs $3.25. On the other hand, you’ve probably never had it so good.

Red Ginger Caribbean and Latin American Bistro, 1564 Wisc. Ave., NW; tel., 965-7009; web, http://www.redgingerbistro.com. Open for lunch, Tue.-Sat., and dinner, Tue.-Sun. Entrée prices: $14-$19. Major credit cards accepted.

*Alexandra Greeley is a food writer, editor and restaurant reviewer. She has authored books on Asian and Mexican cuisines published by Simon & Schuster, Doubleday, and Macmillan. Other credits include food editor of Vegetarian Times, restaurant reviews and food articles for national and regional publications, as well as former food editor/writer for the South China Morning Post in Hong Kong.