Reservations Recommended
Plus the Kitchen Sink = Kitchen 2404
Published: June 13th, 2010
If you are on the prowl for DC’s finest burgers, you probably have already ordered at Good Stuff Eatery or BOURBON Steak or even Central Michel Richard. But unless you’ve stopped by Kitchen 2404 for its Pit Burger, you ain’t eat nuthin’ yet, folks. A gloriously immense meal-in-one, the burger must have been dreamed up by a really, really hungry cook from the South who weighs maybe 97 pounds and can afford to eat 6,000 calories at one sitting. On the other hand, maybe the guy’s a sadist who loves to torture patrons with the best burger EVAH, but make it so immense no one can eat it all at once.
Besides the kitchen sink, what goes into this particular burger? Bits of smoky bacon, pulled pork in a succulent barbecue sauce, caramelized onions that melt in your mouth, cheddar cheese, a fried egg, a hamburger bun, and, yes, an Angus beef patty, which you can order any way you want, from barely rare to well done. And another thing: it’s a safe bet that every time the waitstaff brings this order to a table, patrons groan or gasp…in disbelief.
Located in Glover Park a few doors away from Rocklands and its smoky barbecue and from one of DC’s best ice cream shops, Max’s Best Ice Cream, and across from the Savoy Suites Hotel, Kitchen 2404 has not made much of a media splash, but its food deserves some really close scrutiny — and a whole lot of good eating.
Themed to highlight Southern cooking and all those glorious oink-filled flavors, Kitchen doesn’t miss a beat to lead patrons down the path of calorie overload: “small” plates include a mac + cheese with caramelized onion béchamel; pimiento cheese sandwiches with house-cut fries; Ms. Barbara’s Creole chili with white cheddar; and crabmeat with a roasted corn chowder.
That’s really to kick off your pig-out, before you move onto the main reason you have come here: the Pit Burger. Listed among the “large plates,” the burger is accompanied by such other Southern entrée goodies as a fried shrimp po’ boy, a Delta fish fry, fried oysters with remoulade, and an order of shrimp and grits. Oh, and if you absolutely must have a side dish, be sure to select the cheddar cheese grits topped with a layer of melted cheese; the grits have been cooked so well that the sweet corn flavor shines through with every bite.
But maybe you’ve come all the way to Kitchen 2404 on a late Saturday afternoon, or really early Sunday morning (as in 1:00 a.m.) and you’ve got Mississippi barbecue on the mind: The kitchen helps this mania along with Delta Devil wings, a pulled pork sandwich (this surely comes from the same recipe as the pulled pork smothering the burger), and a half or whole slab of ribs.
On a recent visit, the only dessert offered was a blueberry-blackberry pie. It’s easy to assume that sweets may not be the chef’s focus, but patrons can take comfort in that. After all, tackling the burger (and probably anything else here) eliminates hunger.
Note that two-story establishment has a small but lively upfront bar where twentysomethings hang out, a discreetly small dining area, and an upstairs bar and dining area perfect for private parties. Note, too, that Kitchen is open for weekend brunch with such dishes as chocolate-hazelnut flapjacks (that’s such a country-western term!), eggs Creole — and the Pit Burger.
Kitchen 2404 | 2404 Wisc. Ave., NW; (202) 333-3877. Hours: Mon.-Thu. 5pm-2am., Fri. & Sat. until 3am, Sun. 11am- to 2am; Brunch, Sat. & Sun. 11am-4pm. Entrée price range: $11-$19;$15 for the Pit Burger.
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& Alexandra Greeley. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, including for commercial purposes, without permission is prohibited.







