Want to eat breakfast and dessert at once? If this edgy idea appeals, then here’s a suggestion: fried bacon strips dipped in dark, sweet chocolate, thanks to the chef at the recently renamed Agraria Farmers & Fishers in Georgetown. Perhaps the most unusual first bite in town, this combo may sound odd, but at least one forward-thinking candy maker (Vosges in Chicago) has already structured a chocolate bacon candy bar with great success. And one DC restaurant’s chef has created an ice cream and bacon dessert.

And Agraria, with its sister restaurant Founding Farmers [ed. note: see review published in this space, December 2008], may be one of the most unusual restaurants in town. Trendy is the farm-fresh movement, but here is a restaurant that is owned and operated by family farmers. Maybe their produce and meats are not all local — who knows? — but what you eat comes from these farmers and artisan purveyors who believe in sustainable farming. Even the waitstaff, dressed in plaid shirts and jeans, give off the air of people who have just come in from the back 40.

That’s one plus for Agraria. The second is this: The menu hints at an innovative chef at work in the kitchen, one who is not a bit scared of tempting patrons with such offerings as the chocolate-dipped bacon, a fattening treat that comes as cooked and chilled bacon strips threaded on a skewer and stuck into a half apple. Although this may be best shared — it comes as six strips — the self-indulgent may not wish to share. Like me. Oink.

Casting about for the entrée can trip you up: big salad, you think, after the bacon bonanza. Nah . . . while these salads may be outstanding, greens are, well, greens. Think, instead, of something meatier and hunkier, and a bit offbeat. Like one of the burgers. Hot restaurant items now, burgers generate real star power, and Agraria’s keep up with the best of them.

Take the grilled cheeseburger, which is actually two sandwiches in one — grilled fontina and Cheddar cheeses pressed between toasted slices of bread and encasing a thick and juicy burger. How bad can that be? Alongside, the requisite side of French fries, cut probably from farm-fresh potatoes. This burger, indeed goes onto the list of bigger-better burgers in town.

As sandwiches go, also consider the soft shell crab club — likely a seasonal offering to coincide with crabbing days — which like all good club sandwiches includes sliced tomatoes and bacon. Or for a more offbeat selection, Agraria offers grilled Najajo sandwich structured from fry bread and filled with your choice of crabmeat and brie, chicken carnitas, or meat muffaletta.

Along the line of sandwiches, you might consider one of the truck-style tacos — a tribute to the farmhands who tend the fields — made from fresh corn tortillas and one of several fillings. Set into taco racks, these are three to an order, accompanied by a ramekin of salsa. Problem is, at least with the roast sirloin filling pre-moistened with salsa, by the third taco, the corn tortilla wrapper had started to disintegrate, leaving a handful of moist meat.

If you picked a less outrageous starter, like a soup, for example, you may set your eye on a heartier entrée. These might include one of the pastas or the farmhouse pizzas — topped with prosciutto, fig jam mozzarella, crescenza, and blue cheese, for example — or a beef, pork, chicken, or seafood main course. Re-reading the menu a day or so later causes some regrets: You’ll end up wondering, why didn’t I select the crispy-skin duck breast with rice and veggies, or the country ribeye?

Dessert choices are limited, but for a celebratory wedge of cake — one waiter called it their “birthday cake” — is the vanilla cake with chocolate frosting. Also up recently: a mixed-fruit cobbler, peach shortcake, Key lime pie, doughnuts sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar, and various ice creams and sorbets.

You probably won’t have to look for excuses to return often to Agraria. Its fountainside setting by the Potomac and the diverse menu are magnets enough. Besides, the modest prices and the extensive beverage menu of teas, wines, beers, cocktails, and sodas add the final touch. Oh, and yes, the bread: perhaps some of the best in the city, it’s baked fresh daily on the premises, and a basketful may disappear quickly. Why? Its crust is chewy, and the bread itself has a moist denseness that defies abstinence.

Agraria Farmers & Fishers / 3000 K St., NW (202) 298-0003. Hours: Lunch & Dinner, Sun.-Thu, 11:30am-10pm; Fri. & Sat., to 11pm. Entrée price range: $10-market price. www.farmersandfishers.com.