Reservations Recommended
Quick Bites: Andrene’s and Heller’s
Published: June 14th, 2009
There are just some days when sitting down to a full meal takes too much time, to say nothing of cooking it in the first place. On the other hand, a fast-food joint rarely offers ritzy (read appetizing) meals. But you can get around this eat-and-run dilemma without sacrificing taste, right around the corner — sort of.
For an offbeat experience, go a little off the beaten track to Andrene’s Caribbean/Soul Food way over on Kennedy and 3rd Streets. The place makes no bones about being a carryout, despite the two or three seats inside. These are meant for waiting for your order, not really for eating in. Although management offers a take-out menu, daily fare is printed out on an overhead board — but check first that what you want is available. The kitchen person behind the plastic window shield scoffed at the order of the chocolate cake. “Why, we haven’t sold that in ages,” she noted. Small comfort, if when all that really appeals is gooey chocolate.
On the other hand, Andrene’s sells a pretty decent cheesecake, the good kind with a dense, cheesey filling and a thick crust — alas, not made on the premises — which is a fitting conclusion to the over-the-top curried goat served with your choice of rice and peas, greens, fried plantains, and much more. Available small ($8.25) or large ($10), this makes one mean meal, and the small is enough for one and probably for two hungry eaters.
Barbecued ribs may be tempting (that must be the Soul Food part of the menu), but after such a long drive across town, why not stick to Caribbean fare, part of the restaurant’s name and mission. Jerk chicken, coco bread, croaker, escoveitched snapper (poached and covered with a spicy marinade), steamed snapper, and a stewed chicken entrée with rice and veggies pack a mighty sunny punch. Tack on greens, cornbread, mac and cheese, fries, and/or cabbage, and you’ve gotten up a whole head of steam.
Kick off your mornings, if you have a mind to it, by dropping by for breakfast, a very typical offering of eggs, home fries, grits, corned beef hash, and/or pancakes, guaranteed to get you to work on time. This is no-frills eating at its best.
Have you forgotten Heller’s Bakery? That’s possible with all the newbies opening up. But over Mt. Pleasant way, this old-timer still serves some of the best pastries, cakes (especially wedding cakes), sandwiches, cookies, doughnuts, and empanadas anywhere in town. With their glass display cases crammed with goodies, and your very own big appetite, temptation to overbuy and overeat is compelling.
Start with their breakfasts — the usual eggs, pancakes, omelets — served until mid-afternoon. Or dig into a lunch meal of hot or cold sandwiches. The chicken empanadas are wonderful, chock-full of flavor and texture, but you may want to trim calories and just select one of the salads. That will leave you with plenty of wiggle room for the reasonably prices pastries or cookies. Or like one of the local moms who dropped by, pick up a whole cake (tres leches — a three-milk spongecake — would do the trick) or a scrumptious frosting-coated cupcake. If you are craving a yummy pie, you’ll find the regulars of French apple, Dutch apple, and plain apple pies, plus cherry and blueberry pies. For a special order of any other favorite, such as lemon meringue or Key lime pie, call a day ahead to order, and plan your feasting accordingly.
A real Washington landmark, baking for Washingtonians since 1928 and also famous for its wonderful freshly baked breads, Heller’s may offer minimal seating, but it does offer maximal fun and, besides, its smile cookies really rock.
Andrene’s Caribbean-Soul Food Carry Out / 308 Kennedy St., NW; (202) 291-7997. Hours: Mon.-Fri., 8am-9:30pm; Sat. 11:30am-10:30pm.
Heller’s Bakery / 3221 Mt. Pleasant St., NW; (202) 265-1169. Hours: Tue.-Sat., 7am-8 p.m; Sun. & Mon., to 3pm.
Click Here to Email This Article
& Alexandra Greeley. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part, including for commercial purposes, without permission is prohibited.




