By Alexandra Greeley

To set the record straight, the owners of Moroni & Brothers — José and Reyna Velasquez — did work for years at both Pizzeria Paradiso restaurants in Washington (one of the pair apparently still does), they are not Italian, and the couple does own a pizza restaurant. But what the press doesn’t really emphasize is this: Pizzas — and excellent ones at that — make up only a small segment of this basically Salvadoran and Mexican menu. How about a platter of yuca with chicharrùn and a starter of cheese pupusas with your Caprichosa pizza? Then leave with a take-out order of beef tacos, but with a twist?

Uptown in the Petworth neighborhood, Moroni & Brothers consists of a small storefront painted in brick red and accented by a corner brick oven, a jukebox cranking Latino tunes, and the ubiquitous TV. Folks drop in and out, and whatever else the restaurant may not offer, it has obviously become a Latino gathering place as well as a family eatery. On a recent weekend, parents were urging their toddler to finish his breakfast fare, while local laborers dropped by for coffee and a pupusa or two.

Although it’s unclear why a Latino couple selected an Italian name for their Italian/Salvadoran/Mexican eatery, it’s clear that they spotlight their pies, even going so far as importing an impressive wood-burning oven from Italy. And clearly, as pizza competition goes, Moroni & Brothers restaurant is a serious contender with the thin, delicate crusts of its pizzas topped with cheeses that bubble and brown while baking. The toppings, at least for the Caprichosa pie, are freshly cut veggies paired with a very spicy salami and two types of cheese. If you don’t mind the heat, you should request extra salami on your pie. Otherwise, you may find the portions too skimpy. Best eaten hot straight from the oven, the pizza loses some of its luster as a leftover.

But for the inveterate eater, the menu poses a problem. Unless you go in a group, chances are you’ll only be able to squeeze in a pizza and maybe one other substantial dish — of course, you’ll need to save room for dessert, such as the banana pie. Not really a pie but a cream-filled and fried banana segment (or small banana — hard to tell), this unexpected sweet may satisfy your inner child, but frankly it’s a bit greasy. Why not an order of flan, such a typical Latino custard and probably really delicious here?.

While the banana “pie” may not take first place in any dessert competition, the kitchen’s yuca with chicharrùn would edge out any rivals in town. Best eaten straight from the kitchen, the yuca fries are thick, hot, and crusty, and unlike their counterparts in other Latino eateries, these are entirely free of grease. They could become addictive. Unfortunately, the chicharrones, or cubes of fried pork, while tasty, were a bit tough.

Two other must-haves: The pupusas are tender rounds of grilled dough filled either with cheese or a combination of cheese and shredded pork — your choice. If you order several, you can skip the rest of the meal; these are the size of generously sized pancakes, and are a real treat. And, just fine for take-out, the beef tacos made with shredded fajita beef and wrapped in thick corn tortillas are accompanied by smooth-as-satin refried beans and a pico de gallo salsa. Other taco choices include tongue and chicken and you’ll find assorted quesadillas, fajitas, and enchiladas as well. As for Salvadoran specialties, the kitchen can whip up for you a tongue stew, grilled steak with red onions, and tripe soup, among others. And not slighting their Italian inspiration, the owners add four panini to their quirky selection of eats.

Actually, Moroni & Brothers offers such a compellingly diverse menu you might want to keep this on your list of great neighborhood eateries. Better yet, if you really do live in the neighborhood, head here for a pizza night out and take home enough goodies for breakfast and lunch the next day. You’ll be glad you did. You might want to add a plate of chorizo with eggs and veggies to go. Really.

Moroni & Brothers • 4811 Georgia Ave., NW; tel., (202) 829-2090. www.moroniandbrothers.com. Hours: Mon.-Thu., 7am-11:30pm.; Fri. & Sat., to 12mid.; Sun., 11am-10pm. Large pizza price range: $8-$15.95. Visa & MasterCard accepted.