By Alexandra Greeley

All things considered, it’s probably not often you can lunch at an upscale restaurant on a roasted elk salad. Indeed, few chefs-at least in DC- would think to compose a menu with such delicacies as elk, braised goat shank with okra, suckling pig with wilted kale, and for starters, roasted rabbit rack with butternut squash. If all this sounds like part of a script for a Hollywood western, it isn’t.Instead, it’s the kind of food that executive chef Michael Harr thinks about when he sets out to wow DC palates at his trimmed and tailored restaurant, Butterfield 9, a restaurant that has undergone a sea change since Harr took over. The same early Hollywood photos still accent the walls, and the two-story interior still has the feeling of an art deco stage set, high-ceilinged in shades of peach and persimmon. However, it’s the food and the attitude that make BU 9 really count now.

But back to the elk salad. Rather than elk — which tastes a bit like gamey beef — what I really wanted, even craved, was Harr’s famous braised beef short ribs. He calls them the ultimate comfort food, and if you want something with a homey touch, but that tastes a whole lot better than Mom can produce, sample these. As Harr explains, his ribs are slow-cooked at a gentle simmer for many hours, producing an entrée with meat that’s more than fork tender. Food writers can come up with plenty of adjectives, and in the case of these ribs, how about silken? Pillowy? Delicately moist? Savory? Tender? Succulent?

Not too long ago, the ribs in question set off a firestorm of interest and debate among DC foodies after a writer posted a dismissive appraisal of them online. Quite sensibly, Harr stood his ground, and set up a short ribs challenge so that the dining public could draw its own conclusions. At a set hour, Harr gave away four-ounce servings of the ribs to any takers. And the results? According to his publicist, “The Short-Rib Challenge went wonderfully. Chef Harr dished out his short-ribs and creamy truffled grits to over 300 guests, all of whom left overwhelmingly positive comments on a comment board inside the restaurant. Chef Harr was thrilled with the turnout, and everyone had nothing but praise for the dish.” And at least one participant wrote to an online site: “The ribs were delicious and definitely not ‘fridge temp’. Even better were the grits though — incredible! Chef Harr has redeemed himself.”

Alas, the ribs were not on the lunch menu when I dropped by. Another plan Harr has cooked up to keep customers coming: He changes the menu often to capture the best of the season. That keeps you guessing, of course, but that also means if you are in the mood for short ribs — and why not? — the day’s menu may be ribless.

Of course, not every dish Harr creates is exotic as braised goat or as homey as short ribs. Besides elk and rabbit, suckling pig and goat shank, Harr’s menu may also offer more conventional fare, including scallops, Atlantic salmon, Muscovy duck breast, and hangar steak. But there any similarity to Harr’s entrées and those prepared elsewhere ends. His diver scallops may be accompanied by braised beef cheek and a chanterelle fondue. The hangar steak by black pepper polenta, and the duck? — by cassoulet, root vegetables, and brioche.

Sides and desserts are another matter altogether. The sides — pomme purée, sautéed spinach, wild mushrooms, and creamy cheese grits, for example — are somewhat predictable and may secure a permanent place on the menu. As for the sweet endings, Harr lets his dessert chef splurge on creating pastry fantasies, which in most cases, are light and delicate, assuring overeaters that they won’t pass out with food fatigue.

Trying to decide, I asked the waitress about her favorites. “The chestnut creme is unbelievable,” she said. “Really unbelievable.” Served with chocolate streusel, meringue and rum ice cream, it has its appeal. But any offering that pairs caramel with chocolate always takes the edge, and the Salty Caramel Chocolate Tart wins hands down. Decadent, yes, but in its diminutive portion, you gain only the essence of chocolate and of caramel in just enough spoonfuls to satisfy without overwhelming. Of course, if pure chocolate tempts, consider the Molten Chocolate Cake, or simply order both, pay the bill, and gather up your memories.

As you’ll discover after just one BU9 meal, Harr has both style and elegance, and even if a bit of a culinary rebel, he treats his ingredients with respect and understands the imperative of cooking seasonally with local ingredients. One observation, however: Described as an entrée salad, the five roasted elk slices come with only a toss of micro greens and a few garnishes. Macho patrons may need more heft. But where else can you find roasted elk?

Butterfield 9 / 600 14th St., NW; tel., 289-8810. Lunch, Mon.-Fri., 11:30am-2:30pm.; Dinner, Sun.-Thu., 5:30-10pm., Fri. & Sat. until 11pm. unch entrée price range: $16-$23.Major credit cards.